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A look from Thebe Magugu during South African Fashion Week Fall 2018. South African Fashion Week celebrated its 20th anniversary as the pioneer fashion week in the country. It also marked the end of the long twice-yearly fashion week season in South Africa, which began with South African Menswear Week in July and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Joburg in August, not to mention the 4th Bokeh International Fashion Film Festival in Cape Town in September.According to Lucilla Booyzen, founder of SAFW, the event throughout the last two decades “has grown into the optimal platform for designers to start, develop and grow their businesses. It is the key voice of fashion in South Africa recognizing the power our diversity holds in this sector, which is one of the most socially inclusive SA industries.”Since its inception in 1997, SAFW has used the designer competition as a springboard to showcase that individuality and originality in order to identify and nurture new talent as well as to inspire and challenge both emerging and established designers.This cycle of SAFW — which took place over five days at a new venue, the rooftop of the Sandton City Mall in suburban Johannesburg — opened with the Sunglass Hut New Talent Search competition, which challenged designers to create a collection that would strike a balance between commercial and aesthetic appeal. It was won by the design duo Maxwell Boko and MMuso Potsane, whose high-end women’s wear line, MmusoMaxwell, was formed in 2016 and blends African heritage and contemporary culture.Boko and Potsane first met at another competition, the reality TV show "The Intern by David Tlale," who is one of South Africa’s top designers. Their winning collection at SAFW’s New Talent Search featured wearable clothes with an intellectual edge, in neutral colors with unexpected details, including asymmetric curves and layers of geometric prints.MmusoMaxwell, which bested eight other finalists, won a trip to London Fashion Week in February, as well as a one-year representation package from the Johannesburg-based showroom The Fashion Agent.Also presented during SAFW were the winners of the inaugural Cape Wools SA Fashion Week Designer Challenge: Jacques Van der Watt of Black Coffee for women's wear and Ephraim Molingoana of Ephymol for men's wear.The competition was organized in association with strategic partner Cape Wools SA, which challenged designers to showcase, as the company’s chief executive officer Louis De Beer said, “the superb qualities of South African merino wool.” South Africa is one of the world’s largest producers and exporters of wool. In September 2017, the country exported over 3.65 million kilograms of wool, with some 2.7 million kilograms shipped to China alone.For Booyzen, the collaboration with Cape Wool SA “has also brought about a new awareness around the devastating effect of fast fashion and the consumers’ responsibility to invest in a wardrobe that resonates with style and not with trends that are coming and going every eight weeks. Designing for the responsible fashion consumer is the order of the day.”Another partner of SAFW, the national department store Woolworths, similarly espoused sustainable fashion and presented a fashion show to spotlight the 11 designers whose capsule collections would be available in select Woolworths stores within a stand-alone StylebySA section. They included some of the most exciting design talents in the country today, such as Sindiso Khumalo, Thebe Magugu, Rich Mnisi, AKJP, Cleo Droomer, Gert-Johan Coetzee, Lukhanyo Mdingi, Maria Mccloy, Selfi, Ifele and Ephymol. Khumalo, Magugu, Mnisi and AKJP were challenged to conceptualize and design a range made from sustainable fibers as part of Woolworths’ Better Cotton Initiative.Woolworths also took the opportunity during this cycle of SAFW to create an immersive installation on-site designed and produced with the people and the planet in mind. It featured BCI cotton sheeting accented with raw BCI cotton slivers, which was earmarked for donation after SAFW to The Clothing Bank to benefit unemployed South African women.Meanwhile, SAFW’s main contender for the title of the fashion week on the continent, the annual Lagos Fashion and Design Week, took place at about the same time as SAFW.The seven-year-old event, organized by Style House Files, with founder and executive director Omoyemi Akerele at the helm, attracts designers from across Africa.
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The project, funded by the British Library, visited around 100 photo studios across the south Indian state of Tamil Nadu and preserved, or rather digitised, 10,000 prints. Many of the photos were taken between 1880-1980, and they ranged from portraits of families and famous stars to weddings and funerals. Image copyright French Institute of Pondicherry Image caption Many would flock to studios to get portraits done, which were popular at the time Zoe E Headley, one of the researchers, said this is the first project of its kind done in India. "The digital archive will be an asset for those interested in history - what life was like in 19th Century Tamil Nadu." Ramesh Kumar, another researcher on the project, called it a "gold mine" for photographers. "The research we've done also highlights production techniques used before digital photography arrived in our cities and towns," he said. Often, they would find old photos stacked on top of one another in the attic of a studio, or stashed away in a cupboard. "No one had bothered to clean them," Kumar said, adding that many photos had deteriorated due to the "tropical climate and humidity" in Tamil Nadu. The researchers don't have exact statistics on the number of studios still operating in the city, but according to Headley, "the digital revolution has spelled doom for photo studios across the world." Image caption Sathyam Studio has remained in the same spot since 1930 Sathyam Studio, located on RK Mutt Road in Chennai, has been in the same spot since it opened in 1930. At first glance, it looks like a small photocopy shop rather than a photo studio. Inside, portraits of Hemamalini, a famous Tamil film star, and VV Giri, former president of India, grace the reception walls. The studio is run by Anandh Raju, who took it over from his father.http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-india-42194191
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